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Furniture Mart

Curious about what type of finish is on a particular piece of furniture you bought or inherited? Wish you could talk intelligently to your furniture repairman about the piece you have brought to his shop? Then this article is for you.

Furniture is expensive so who doesn’t get upset when they notice water stain or a scratch on their dining room table, kitchen chair, or bedroom armoire? And what about those inherited furniture pieces? Nobody wants to have to hide his or her family heirlooms away in the attic because of damage to the finish. Nevertheless before you try to remove the damage, read on.

Before you begin trying to repair any piece of furniture’s surface, or consider taking a piece to a shop for repair, you should know what type of finish technique has been used. It could save you from choosing the wrong solvents, from being misinformed by antique dealers and even keep you from believing overblown repair estimates from untrustworthy repair shops.

So, how do you determine finish?

Well, you could trust what the dealer told you when you purchased the piece. After all, they’re in the furniture business, right? They must know what they’re talking about, right? For heirloom pieces, you could ask your great aunt Sarah what she thinks it is or what she recalls her mother telling her about the piece when she was a child.

Or, perhaps you could use a more scientific approach. We recommend a more precise method; otherwise, after causing irreparable damage to your piece, you may find yourself arguing with your local antique dealer (and never again getting a “good deal”) or being disowned by your great aunt Sarah.

To determine what type of finish is on your piece, all you have to do is find out which solvent will dissolve it. It’s chemistry. Each type works on a different type of finish.

Varnish
How do you determine if you are dealing with a varnish finish? The quick answer is that no solvent will dissolve varnish. Various solvents can destroy it but it cannot be dissolved. For example, paint remover and lacquer thinner will both destroy it but not remove it. To test, put a bit of lacquer thinner or paint remover on a hidden piece of the surface and watch what happens. If it’s varnish it will become crinkled and cracked. But when you try and brush or wipe it off, it will not come off. To fix the damage on a varnished piece will take a great deal of time. Your choices are sanding down the piece and refinishing or using a specialty solvent and refinishing the piece.

Lacquer
You can test for a lacquer finish by applying lacquer thinner to a hidden part of the piece. Take a clean cloth, wrap it around the tip of your finger, dip it into the thinner, and rub it on. If the surface begins to smooth out underneath your finger, then the finish is made of lacquer. How does it work? Well the thinner regenerates the lacquer. Essentially it re-liquefies it. After a few minutes the thinner will evaporate leaving a smoother surface behind.

Shellac
To test for shellac, use denatured alcohol or wood alcohol. Use the same technique used to test for lacquer. Wrap a finger tip in a clean cloth, dip it into the alcohol and begin to rub the surface. If it begins to re-dissolve, then you are dealing with lacquer. Sometimes lacquer will dissolve using paint thinner. However, if it does, and you don’t also test using denatured alcohol, you will not know if you are dealing with shellac or lacquer, something you will need to know to move forward with your repairs.

That’s it. Now you know how your particular piece has been finished. Now that you have educated yourself on finishes, you can be shop for bargains and new pieces with more confidence.

Good luck!

source : Furniture Mart

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Indonesian Teak Furniture Manufacturers

Cleaning your furniture can be quite a chore, especially when you have special furniture to clean. This guide will help you to know how to clean your different types of furniture. While regular dusting will keep furniture relatively clean, different types of furniture require specialized care.

Iron furniture

An iron piece must be properly sealed by the manufacturer. To clean the piece without removing the seal, occasionally wipe with a damp cloth or mild solution of dishwashing liquid and water; spray WD-40 on moving parts only. (Touch-up paint won't adhere to surfaces covered by WD-40.) Check with the manufacturer about removing stains and scratches. Remove any rust stains immediately with a wire brush and apply touch-up paint from the manufacturer. During the winter, cover iron furniture and, ideally, store it inside.

Lacquered or polyurethane-sealed furniture

Dust as needed. Clean using a sponge dipped in warm soapy water. Rinse and wipe dry. If lacquer is peeling, the item will need stripping and relacquering. Avoid solvents and highly caustic products.

Leather furniture

Color may be applied to leather upholstery with a pigmented coating, which resists water-based spills, or with aniline dye, which is more vulnerable, meaning that stains should be treated immediately. The manufacturer's guidelines should specify how color has been applied and provide care instructions. If you're not sure, place a drop of water on a hidden location. If the drop doesn't soak in, the coating is pigmented; otherwise it is aniline dyed. To clean aniline-dyed leather, simply vacuum regularly, especially in crevices and along seams where dirt can gather. Pigmented leather should be vacuumed and wiped periodically with a soft, white cloth dampened with water. For both types of leather, once a year use saddle soap or other cleaner or polish made specifically for leather, following directions and allowing it to dry. If the leather starts to crack, apply neat's-foot oil.

Painted wood furniture

Regularly dust a delicate decoupage or faux-painted piece, or one made of distressed wood, and wipe it occasionally with a microfiber dusting cloth. If the wood has been sealed, dampen it with a sponge, and wipe dry. Apply furniture polish, if desired, then buff.

Plastic laminated furniture

Furniture having a plastic laminated finish should be dusted regularly and occasionally wiped with a damp, soft cloth.

Redwood furniture

To clean, scrub with detergent and water, rinse with a damp sponge, and dry. Redwood should be sealed occasionally, after cleaning and possibly sanding to keep out moisture and to prevent cracking. If it has grayed, a wood-rejuvenation sealer can restore color. Remove grease and soot stains with a mixture of 1 cup of TSP (trisodium phosphate) in 1 gallon of water, then rinse. Cover and store it for the winter.

Suede furniture

Suede is a very vulnerable fabric, not only because of the dyeing process, but also because the material is porous and quick to absorb stains. For routine care, gently brush suede furniture with a soft brush or textured cloth, such as a towel to remove excess dirt. Vacuum regularly, especially in crevices and along seams where dirt can get trapped. To clean a greasy stain, rub it with ground oatmeal, leave the oatmeal in place to absorb the grease, then brush it off and vacuum it. To raise the nap on a section of suede, brush it with a terry cloth towel. If suede has been flattened by spills or wear and tear, only a professional leather finisher can restore it.

Teak furniture

An oil-finished product, teak should be dusted regularly and cleaned with a mild detergent. Oil occasionally with teak oil, annually for outdoor furniture, every two or three years for indoor furniture. Rub the oil on with a clean, soft cloth, leave overnight, and buff with another clean, soft cloth to remove excess.

Other wood furniture

You can use an appropriate wood oil every six months, although some of these can make surfaces sticky and more prone to fingerprints and dust. Do not use furniture polish, which may muddy the finish. Wax will not create, increase, or even protect the mirror-like luster of a highly finished wood surface, like a piano top. Wax buildup can darken and mask the grain. Occasionally, you do need a cleaner to remove smudges, fingerprints, and grease left from cooking. Dust antique wood furniture regularly with a soft cotton cloth. Wax (if appropriate) once or twice a year. Some dealers recommend waxing at the beginning and end of the heating season. Wax unfinished surfaces so that the raw wood can absorb the wax and minimize the chance that it will crack or the veneer will lift. Don't use silicone polishes on antiques.

Cleaning different types of furniture can be tricky, although I hope these tips are a help to you.

source : Indonesian Teak Furniture Manufacturers